Today we left at 9:30 to go for the first time into the ice fall. It was a
really lovely hot morning, and the ice fall was great fun. Equipped with
crampons, helmets, harnesses and ice axes within easy reach we climbed up
the route about 1/4 of the way up the ice fall, to the first ladder over a
crevasse. Most of the route is fixed ropes, and we used ascenders
sporadically and carabineers all the time for protection. It wasn’t too
steep up as far as we went, but there were bits and pieces of climbing up
ice slopes and scrambling, and it was all up and down over spectacular
glacier ice. I think the photos give you a bit of a taste of what it’s like
in there – it’s all broken up massive ice blocks where the glacier is having
to bend as it meets the ground. It actually moves a couple of meters
vertically every day, which is one of the big risks associated with it – the
moving ice means that ladders and fixed ropes have to be constantly
monitored, and there’s always the danger of falling ice. Today we didn’t go
into the “popcorn” section of the ice (where the broken pieces move
frequently), and stayed where it was really relatively safe. However, the
main risky section is above the “popcorn” ice – where there are overhanging
ice cliffs above the left side of the route.
We start off at 3am tomorrow to go up through the ice fall to Camp One. This
is so that we get through the ice fall whilst it’s coldest, when the ice is
least likely to move. We also make sure that we move quickly through the
dangerous areas, and try not to stop anywhere with objective hazards. It
should be approximately an 8 hour day (I think we will be moving a little
slower than a lot of other groups). This first rotation will have us
spending 2 nights at Camp One before moving up for another 2 nights at Camp
2. Unfortunately I won’t have any internet connection, so I’ll be audio
blogging!
I’ve had my last shower today before the rotation, and I think we’re all
tentatively excited about finally moving properly above base camp, although
of course I can’t say I’m overjoyed at the 2am get up or how cold it will be
at that time. It wouldn’t be the same without it though. After today, I am
very much looking forward to going back into the ice fall.
I’ll let you know how our early start and long day go tomorrow, and hope
you’re all properly appreciating being warm where ever you are!