Ladder Practice

I’m sorry for cutting the last blog off so shortly – I was thrown off the computer so that the team could watch Hot Tub Time Machine. It definitely requires a specific type of humor, however I found it funny. As I was saying: We walked down to the middle of base camp to see a brilliant gallery showing old and new photos of glaciers in the Himalayas. The difference is sometimes quite astonishing. My dad and I then went down to visit a friend from our Elbrus expedition that we’d kept in touch with who’s now climbing Everest with IMG – Ramin. He actually ended up getting married to one of the other members of that team that he met on the trip and they now have a baby together! Anyway, it was lovely seeing him and I think he was both very surprised and pleased to be told he had visitors when he was at Everest base camp of all places.
It’s been great bumping into familiar faces from other mountains; it really is a small community.
Today we had a gear check in the morning and made sure all of our Y rigs and prussics (I’m not sure on the spelling of that one) met Eric and Jose’s standards. While we were out there it started snowing and it’s continued to be a cold day. I’m glad I got in my shower yesterday.
After lunch we started ladder practice for in the ice fall. We had 3 ladders roped together about a foot and a half off the ground, although it steadily got lower and lower until it broke as we used it… We started with normal boots and progressed into our big double plastic boots, and then into crampons. It was pretty difficult and I think we’re all going to want more practice before the real deal. To be safest you have to stand with the gap in the middle of your crampons on the rungs of the ladder, and not stepping on the metal points takes practice. We only had 2 falls, and one because the ladder fell apart. The photo attached shows my dad walking along in what’s meant to be the correct form; I can’t say I find the leaning forwards my favourite position, but maybe I’ll get there. There were certain advantages to do with being young and balance!
This was followed by a short lesson in filing our crampons back into sharp points (almost all of ours are quite blunt from previous use). This process looks as if it will take each of us about an hour, so I’m not particularly looking forward to my turn on that. All for good cause though.
This evening it looks like we’ll be watching another film, and the rest of the day promises to be relaxing. We’re still all excited by the avalanches and I was out of my tent at just past 6 this morning to photograph a particularly big one. Hope everyone’s well. Ta ta for now.

Kala Patthar, Base Camp and Saying Goodbye

The day before yesterday I decided to go with Kelly and the trekking group to Gorak Shep to climb the small peak of Kala Patthar the next morning. The climbing group and my mum stayed behind to have a rest day, with the exception of Mark who came along with Tennielle. We stopped off at an Italian research station underneath Louboche mountain and were shown round and given a short speech on global warming by a fairly eccentric researcher before carrying on to the lodge. The guide for the trekking group, Ben (who’s coming back up to solo Lhotse after he finishes the trek), had agreed to take up the friends and family of the climbing group to Kala Patthar the morning before the rest of the group so that they could both spend a night at base camp and do that summit. We were up and downstairs at 5am to start the hike, and it was a beautiful clear morning. Besides Ben and Norbu (a really nice Sherpa guide) we had a fully female group, consisting of Michael’s wife Susan, Chris and Rob’s daughter/sister Nikki, Mark’s girlfriend Tennielle (Mark hardly slept and woke with a headache so stayed back to conserve energy for the big climb), Kelly and myself.
We all made the summit and had beautiful views of Everest, Lhotse and Nuptse. It was actually quite a long, relatively difficult morning, finishing in a bit of a scramble to the top. For me it was great to see that the Everest training had made it really quite easy, I think I would have been worried if it hadn’t, but besides that it was very cold and when you could see the top it seemed to take forever to reach it. The views were worth it and we were all happy to get there. Seeing the first light and the sun rise above Everest was spectacular.
After getting down and eating breakfast we packed up and, with the whole trekking team, made our way into base camp. This made it a long day and it was made even longer by the fact that when you reach Everest Base Camp it actually takes another 45 minutes to get to Alpine Ascent’s Base Camp. AAI are right at the back next to the Khumbu Ice Fall, and base camp in total stretches possibly up to 2 miles, housing approximately 500 climbers. It was great seeing all the different guide groups and their camps, and it was so amazing to finally be here.
On Kala Patthar and up to Base Camp we were able to see part of the route that we’ll be taking up Everest. I think all of us were surprised by quite how big the Ice Fall really is. It goes up forever! It’s so spectacular and terrifying and we’re now camped at the foot of it. About 2x a day we’ll hear or see avalanches in the area, but nothing close or on the route we plan to take.
Base Camp is wonderful. We have a tent each, although last night our friends/family stayed with us, we have a dinner tent, a “hanging out” tent, a communications tent, 3 toilet tents and a shower tent (which I took advantage of in the hot weather this morning). Our dinner tent is huge and we have access to a range of hot and cold drinks and snacks 24/7, as well as a heater for the evenings!
It was very sad saying goodbye to my mum and Kelly this morning, and lots of people were emotional. They’re heading all the way down to Debouche today and meeting up with the rest of the group that did Kala Patthar this morning. We had a really relaxing day setting up our tents and lounging around before walking down 30 minutes to meet the staff at the makeshift Base Camp hospital, and seeing the photo gallery “Rivers of Ice”.
I can’t write anymore today as they’re wanting the laptop to play a film on a big projector in the dining tent! I’ll write again tomorrow and will attach a photo then. Ttfn.

Blessed, Rest Day and Memorials

This is the first connection we’ve managed to get over the past couple of days, so apologies for the break! As this is going to cover 3 days of walking I’m warning you in advance it might be a little long…
3 days ago we stopped not too long after setting out at the local Llama Geshi’s house to receive a blessing before our climb. We waited outside and folded money into our Kata scarves (reusing them to avoid collection another, as I have been given 3 already) to present to the Llama in our right hand. The climbing group with friends and family all went in together and we sat in what seemed almost like a classroom and were given tea. The Llama was sat in front of us with a plate of rice, a bell and what seemed like a cup of tea perhaps on a tiered plate. Lakpa Rita translated for him and we were sang various prayers to help us on our travels, had the bell rung to attract the attention of the gods, and had rice thrown over us. We also each went up in front of the Llama to be personally blessed with our Kata scarves being placed around our necks, a red string tied as a necklace and our heads pulled forward to touch his. He was a character and seemed to be amused by our attempts at the correct ritual, but it was a wonderful experience and I don’t think any of us are removing the red string or abusing the Kata scarves just in case.
That nice was a nice walk finishing off in Dengboche at the Peaceful Lodge. It was probably the least peaceful of the tea houses so far. However, it did have a gas heated shower which meant unlimited hot water – a definite bonus. To be honest, that day was one of those days where I actually really wanted to just carry on walking – it was perfect trekking weather, I was absorbed in my music and we finished quite early.
The following day was a rest day. We started it off with a bit of a lie in and then proceeded on our acclimatization walk; most of us agreed that it was the hardest push so far! It was an optional walk, and carrying on up the last part was also optional, but I actually had a bit of a headache so decided that doing the whole acclimatization walk and concentration on my breathing would be beneficial. Perhaps it worked, or perhaps staying back would have had the same effect, but the headache has disappeared. That afternoon there was an option to go visit a local hospital and listen to a talk on altitude sickness. I stayed behind with probably about half the group; a decision based on letting my cold clear up for good and it being cold and snowy outside and lovely and warm inside. And being in the middle of a very good book (Wild Swans). The group returned saying that it was a nice talk and a cold walk, and that there was an absolutely adorable puppy there.
Today was again a short day and we arrived at Louboche in time or lunch. The surroundings have changed drastically over the past couple of days and we are now at a height where there are boulders and rocks everywhere and even the shrubs have disappeared. At the top of a fairly steep section today was the Everest memorial site. We saw the memorial for Scott Fisher and some of the other victims of the 1996 catastrophe, as well as much older towers of rocks in honour of other perished climbers. Along a pretty flat section after that we arrived at our new lodge and I’ve come across to where the trekkers are staying (this is the first time we’ve separated for the night) to get internet access. I’ll make sure to add photos at a later stage, but unfortunately can’t right now.
We have another rest day for acclimatization tomorrow, but are within half a day’s walk of base camp! Some people are feeling the altitude, either with lack of appetite or feeling off, but everyone is still eating and sleeping and no one is struggling, so all is very well for almost 5000m! Ttfn.

Beautiful Day

20120408-204026.jpg

Happy Easter! We managed a minor celebration this morning with mini chocolate eggs; they were a lovely treat, albeit some of them melting in pockets during the day… This morning was a slow start for some of us as there was an option to go visit a local hospital from 8 – 9am, and, as only 5 people decided to go, the rest of us had the time to admire the view and take photos. It had snowed again over night but we woke to clear blue skies and warm weather, creating the most picturesque view of both Lhotse and Ama Dablam from the tea house. Unusually, it was also warmer outside than in and we made sure to take full advantage.
The warm weather continued for most of the day. We descended all the way back down into the valley and back up the other side to stop briefly at the Tengboche bakery and visit the monastery before descending 20 minutes below to where we’re staying over night. It was incredible the difference this time compared to our ascent to Tengboche 4 and a half years ago. Then that was probably the hardest day for me – I was suffering from altitude sickness and all the uphill was really hard work. This year it was simply a beautiful walk. I was also able to actually visit the monastery, where as last time all I remember is giving away my food from the bakery and falling into my tent. The monastery is a beautiful building filled with such intricate paintings and carvings, some quite disturbing too. Quite a few from the group stayed up in the village to wait for the afternoon ceremony in the monastery, however most said it made them sleepy! The weather cooled by the time we left the bakery, but it stayed clear and I went out with my camera to take some photos of the area before dinner and make friends with the local horses. I also watched a brave raven pluck fur again and again from a yak for its nest, even sitting on the aggravated yak’s back at one point!
After a tense game of Canasta this evening (which my mum and I won against my dad and sister) almost the whole team has already gone to bed. Everyone seems to be getting better from any illness (me included!) and all seem happy, if a little tired. Goodnight!

Beautiful Day

20120408-204026.jpg

Happy Easter! We managed a minor celebration this morning with mini chocolate eggs; they were a lovely treat, albeit some of them melting in pockets during the day… This morning was a slow start for some of us as there was an option to go visit a local hospital from 8 – 9am, and, as only 5 people decided to go, the rest of us had the time to admire the view and take photos. It had snowed again over night but we woke to clear blue skies and warm weather, creating the most picturesque view of both Lhotse and Ama Dablam from the tea house. Unusually, it was also warmer outside than in and we made sure to take full advantage.
The warm weather continued for most of the day. We descended all the way back down into the valley and back up the other side to stop briefly at the Tengboche bakery and visit the monastery before descending 20 minutes below to where we’re staying over night. It was incredible the difference this time compared to our ascent to Tengboche 4 and a half years ago. Then that was probably the hardest day for me – I was suffering from altitude sickness and all the uphill was really hard work. This year it was simply a beautiful walk. I was also able to actually visit the monastery, where as last time all I remember is giving away my food from the bakery and falling into my tent. The monastery is a beautiful building filled with such intricate paintings and carvings, some quite disturbing too. Quite a few from the group stayed up in the village to wait for the afternoon ceremony in the monastery, however most said it made them sleepy! The weather cooled by the time we left the bakery, but it stayed clear and I went out with my camera to take some photos of the area before dinner and make friends with the local horses. I also watched a brave raven pluck fur again and again from a yak for its nest, even sitting on the aggravated yak’s back at one point!
After a tense game of Canasta this evening (which my mum and I won against my dad and sister) almost the whole team has already gone to bed. Everyone seems to be getting better from any illness (me included!) and all seem happy, if a little tired. Goodnight!

To Thame and Back Again

20120407-200823.jpg

Apologies for no blog yesterday – we unfortunately didn’t have any internet connection. Not what you’d expect from the middle of the Himalayas, of course. Before we left the lodge yesterday the climbers were honoured with a Kata ceremony, where we flicked milk tea in a decorated pot with our ring finger up in the air three times to honour the God on the top of Everest and towards ourselves, although we couldn’t work out what the last flick was for. We then had Kata scarves draped round our necks for good luck – these are meant to stay high above the ground and not get dirty to “work”. We left a snow covered Namche whilst it was still snowing; it was so beautiful and such a nice change. The whole day we had amazing scenery with snow coverings on all the trees and all the way down the mountains into the valley. We had a lovely walk down a path through the middle of a forest – besides regularly having snow falling on us it was really quite amazing. This was quite a detour from the regular route to Base Camp as it was to where Lakpa Rita’s parents live, Lakpa is our lead guide for those of you that don’t know, has 15 summits of Everest, and has a brother with 16 Everest summits. A very impressive family, along with being extremely lovely and too modest to contemplate.
After arriving at the tea house about half of us walked up to a nearby Buddhist monastery. I realised before we left that this was actually the same monastery I’d visited on my last trip here – I’m not sure why we went this route, but there was even the same tiny old woman there next to the massive prayer wheel…
Today we retraced 2/3 of our journey from yesterday and then turned back up the Khumbu valley. Only after having tea at Lakpa’s parents house this morning though; it was great to finally meet them. It was much warmer than yesterday and was again a nice day. Khumjung, where we are now, has a nice bakery and we bought some tasty apply goods. I’m still suffering from a cold, but the sore throat’s gone which is good news (at least in part thanks to the lovely Aussie couple on our trip who supplied me with some miracle throat lozenges…). And as I keep telling myself, better to be ill at this stage in the trip rather than later. It seems that there are a couple of people suffering from colds and suchlike, including some guides. We’ve also heard news that the helicopter flying in supplies and our Everest kit to base camp has broken, and our Camp 2 cook is having to have two teeth pulled out so is staying behind for a while to recover. The cook being the most important of these two problems, obviously. However, we’ve been assured that everything will be sorted, and we’re all excited and in good spirits. Even Kelly, who has been studying diligently most evening and practising her Spanish with our Latin American guide Jose Luis. Ttfn.

20120407-200542.jpg

First Glimpse of Everest

20120405-195036.jpg

Today was a rest day for the team, with an acclimatisation walk up to the Everest View Hotel this morning. It was a beautiful day with blue skies and warm weather; the walk was an hour and a half up, again lots of steps, but chatting and the weather made it really quite lovely. We rounded a corner when we were almost there and suddenly had the most amazing panoramic view of Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam. Everest was only just visible for long enough to shoot a quick photo before it was obscured by clouds, and some of the group didn’t manage to round the corner in time, but I’ve attached a photo so that you can share the view too. The big mountain on the right with two peaks is Ama Dablam, translated as Mother of the Jewel Box, after a Buddhist jewel box carried by high priests which a massive ice block on the mountain is meant to resemble; next along to the left is Lhotse, the mountain we’re hoping to summit after Everest; lastly, almost obscured by cloud, is the massive pyramid that is the peak of Everest. Ama Dablam is a lot shorter than the other two, but looks huge in comparison at this distance!
The wind picked up when we started back down, and this afternoon has been quite cloudy. The majority of our group all made our way down to the famous Namche Bazaar bakery, relaxed and showered. Our parents taught Kelly and I a card game called Kanasta, and then I went out to search for the other two young British girls also climbing Everest this year. I eventually found Becky Bellworthy and Mollie Hughes in that same bakery and said hi (I’d met Becky and been in contact with Mollie prior to the trip), it was brilliant and I think we’ll have a lot of fun at Base Camp! Then ending up late for dinner we’re now once again ready for bed. Having a little bit of a cold and sore throat today it’ll be an early night for me. On up to Lakpa Rita’s home village tomorrow. Ttfn.

Up To Namche

20120404-195609.jpg

After spending the rest of yesterday playing chess and cards we were up for an 8am start. The weather was lovely all day – warm but still quite cloudy, and after yesterday we all appreciated it doubly much. It was a very long day, with lots and lots of steps; we climbed about 800m in total over 6 and a half hours. Most of the way was shared with yaks, mules and many people, mostly returning and going to Everest Base Camp. It made for a chatty day until it got too steep for easy talking… So, we got into Namche in the early afternoon and then had another 10 minute hill as a finishing touch up to the most wonderful lodge you could imagine on a climbing trip. Showers with hot water, electric blankets in the beds, plug sockets and even hot hand towels before dinner, which was rounded up with chocolate cake. You can imagine the difference compared with my last trip where we had one shower on the whole trip and proper toilets were a rare luxury. One off niceties for the Everest climbers who have 2 months here and their family and friends I believe!
At this 5 star accommodation we’re now preparing to go to bed (at 7:45), and have a rest day with an acclimatisation walk in the morning tomorrow. Hopefully I’ll also be seeing Becky Bellworthy and Mollie Hughes when they arrive at Namche tomorrow, perhaps we’ll bump into them at the highly acclaimed bakery down in the village.
The photo I’ve attached is taken from the middle of one of the many high bridges on the trek, made even more nerve racking when they can be shared with multiple yaks and people, with prayer flags being blown in the wind. With it being spring here I’ve also loved the amount of flowers around, there are such beautiful views!

First Day in the Mountains

20120403-162548.jpg

We were up at 3:30am this morning to try and be the first team at the airport, as it’s more of a first come first serve type flight. Arriving before 5am the airport was already busy! Climbers are crazy people. However, somehow our Alpine Ascents climbing team was put on the first flight into Lukla – we felt privileged. The trekking team followed on the next two flights, as it was a tiny Twin Otter plane which carried 16 people at a time. It’s a very hazy/cloudy day, so the views on the way in weren’t as spectacular as they could have been, but the landing was still brilliant; not quite as steep as I remembered, but still extremely short.
We waited in Lukla and ordered breakfast while the others and our duffel bags arrived – the same tea house as I ate in four and a half years ago with the school trip! I keep seeing places that are bringing back very good memories. Moving on so I don’t bore you with walking down memory lane – it was meant to be a very short 2 and a half hour walk to where we are staying for the night. Yet, having arrived before 7am in the Himalayas, we didn’t arrive at our current location until about 1. This was because of the weather.
We stopped twice at tea houses to get out of the rain when it became too heavy, and both times had tea or soup while we waited out the downpour. The second time it started really chucking it down while we were walking it turned into hail before we could reach shelter; by the time we left the house it looked as if it had snowed, and quite heavily too. It drizzled the rest of the way, and we were all soaked by the time we arrived (I hadn’t packed hard shell trousers in my day pack for the flight, and we were all expecting sun…).
We had a really nice hot lunch, and have now settled down for a relaxing afternoon before starting the longer days tomorrow. The rooms are nice too, and we have a fire in the middle of this dining room! All in all, a nice day getting to know more people (and being surprised by people’s ages!) albeit being quite cold and wet, with some nice views being shrouded in cloud. Ttfn, and hope you’re all well.