This is the first connection we’ve managed to get over the past couple of days, so apologies for the break! As this is going to cover 3 days of walking I’m warning you in advance it might be a little long…
3 days ago we stopped not too long after setting out at the local Llama Geshi’s house to receive a blessing before our climb. We waited outside and folded money into our Kata scarves (reusing them to avoid collection another, as I have been given 3 already) to present to the Llama in our right hand. The climbing group with friends and family all went in together and we sat in what seemed almost like a classroom and were given tea. The Llama was sat in front of us with a plate of rice, a bell and what seemed like a cup of tea perhaps on a tiered plate. Lakpa Rita translated for him and we were sang various prayers to help us on our travels, had the bell rung to attract the attention of the gods, and had rice thrown over us. We also each went up in front of the Llama to be personally blessed with our Kata scarves being placed around our necks, a red string tied as a necklace and our heads pulled forward to touch his. He was a character and seemed to be amused by our attempts at the correct ritual, but it was a wonderful experience and I don’t think any of us are removing the red string or abusing the Kata scarves just in case.
That nice was a nice walk finishing off in Dengboche at the Peaceful Lodge. It was probably the least peaceful of the tea houses so far. However, it did have a gas heated shower which meant unlimited hot water – a definite bonus. To be honest, that day was one of those days where I actually really wanted to just carry on walking – it was perfect trekking weather, I was absorbed in my music and we finished quite early.
The following day was a rest day. We started it off with a bit of a lie in and then proceeded on our acclimatization walk; most of us agreed that it was the hardest push so far! It was an optional walk, and carrying on up the last part was also optional, but I actually had a bit of a headache so decided that doing the whole acclimatization walk and concentration on my breathing would be beneficial. Perhaps it worked, or perhaps staying back would have had the same effect, but the headache has disappeared. That afternoon there was an option to go visit a local hospital and listen to a talk on altitude sickness. I stayed behind with probably about half the group; a decision based on letting my cold clear up for good and it being cold and snowy outside and lovely and warm inside. And being in the middle of a very good book (Wild Swans). The group returned saying that it was a nice talk and a cold walk, and that there was an absolutely adorable puppy there.
Today was again a short day and we arrived at Louboche in time or lunch. The surroundings have changed drastically over the past couple of days and we are now at a height where there are boulders and rocks everywhere and even the shrubs have disappeared. At the top of a fairly steep section today was the Everest memorial site. We saw the memorial for Scott Fisher and some of the other victims of the 1996 catastrophe, as well as much older towers of rocks in honour of other perished climbers. Along a pretty flat section after that we arrived at our new lodge and I’ve come across to where the trekkers are staying (this is the first time we’ve separated for the night) to get internet access. I’ll make sure to add photos at a later stage, but unfortunately can’t right now.
We have another rest day for acclimatization tomorrow, but are within half a day’s walk of base camp! Some people are feeling the altitude, either with lack of appetite or feeling off, but everyone is still eating and sleeping and no one is struggling, so all is very well for almost 5000m! Ttfn.